I have absolutely no experience with film. Overall, I think it does a pretty decent job of scanning film for the price and good way to view your old 8mm/Super 8mm movies. I adjusted the sharpness and tint down a notch which seems to help. I find transfers a bit on the grainy side and the color seems over saturated. The scan quality is not what you would get with a professional scan, not that you should expect that. You definitely need to keep an eye on the unit when in operation as it will hiccup every now and then, especially if there are splices in the film. It's seem to vary with the film I'm scanning. I've managed to resolve this by not necessarily following the designated film path on the take up reel side. I've had some trouble with film frames sticking or jumping occasionally while transferring. The large screen is a big improvement over the other scanners of it's type, although I've never seen any of the other ones in person. My first impressions is the build quality is pretty good and it's straight forward in operation. New holders are coming to the market all the time right now, so if this has piqued your interest in camera scanning, we recommend you keep your eyes open for new holders coming on the market.I just bought this unit about a week ago. If you just do 35mm, then the DigitaLIZA does a similar thing for just over 30€. This holder will remain the cheapest multiformat holder for the foreseeable future. Hands down, the cheapest holder that can be used to scan 35mm, medium format and 4×5 large format is the ‘ pixl-latr’ holder, which, while seems a bit slow to use, will hold all these formats for just 43€ (they are shipping in the coming weeks). There are some alternatives out there, but particularly if your film isn’t perfectly flat, you should be aware that products like the Skier box and the Essential film holder don’t flatten the film like more advanced holders. You could use two pieces of glass, but it probably will produce Newton rings (these strange rainbow rings that show up when you press shiny surfaces together) and will give you dust and scratch problems. They are, however, a really nice way to upgrade once you get more confident – and you might not ever need to upgrade again if you do opt for this option. We chose to use a normal 50mm lens for the tests in this article because enlarger lenses are a level of complexity that you might not want to delve into right from the start. The downside to this is that you have get no fine-tuned adjustment of the camera position, only of the focus. These can generally be had new from various online resellers for as little as 20€. This is the screw part that lets you lens expand to focus closer and can be found on all normal lenses. Another alternative is to buy a separate focusing helicoid. Enlarger lenses generally have M39 threads, and some have M42 threads. This is fixed easily enough: The most modular solution is getting a bellows system – Kamerastore usually has a range of macro bellows.There might not be one for your system exactly, but using adapter rings you can adapt anything to camera and lens – just remember you need to adapt both ends of it. The only problem about this is that they don’t have focusing rings. Even really good ones can be cheap, such as the Nikkor EL 50mm f/4. These were made for reproduction and have all the properties that you want for camera scanning. It’s hard to emphasise how good these are – most of the relatively modern ones will easily resolve the grain in most films. If you want to up your game with a lot of quality, but perhaps a bit more fiddlyness and work, then an enlarger lens might be good for you.
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